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Dan Allen (captain), Nat Davis (cook), Tim Allen (navigator), and Harold Smith (crew) made a sailing voyage
in 2003 from Portsmouth, New Hampshire, to Ile St. Pierre, France, and the south coast of Newfoundland, Canada,
with a return via the Bras d'Or Lakes of Cape
Breton Island, Canada. We sailed aboard the yacht
Diapensia, a Cape Dory 36 Cutter.
This voyage entailed several Offshore Passages "...of long distance and
well offshore, where yachts must be completely self-sufficient for
extended periods of time, capable of withstanding heavy storms and
prepared to meet serious emergencies without the expectation of outside
assistance." We took an Iridium satellite phone with us. Although we were never
able to establish an internet connection over the Sat phone, we did keep
in regular contact with Wendy Allen, who updated this web log for us. In
addition, we were able to access e-mail at most of the ports we
visited in Canada, and were able to upload pictures from our laptop
computer in Sydney (at the public library) and in Halifax (at an Internet Cafe).
Rig and load boat at Great Bay Marine in Newington, NH
Depart Great Bay for the Isles of Shoals, where
we spent the night on a guest mooring, working on assembling the storm jib.
We returned to Portsmouth, NH, to exchange one
of the ship's two batteries, and then headed to sea once that was
accomplished.
Position at 6:30 pm N 43:09.67: W 069:23.26
Position at 6:00 pm N 43:08.24: W 068:24.38
Position at 6:30 pm N 43:12.9: W 066:12.2
Position at 6:30 pm N 43:54.5: W 064:02.2
Position at 6:50 pm N 44:41.3: W 061:42.9
Position at 6:30 pm N 45:29.9: W 059:17.4
Position at 6:30 pm N 46:16.6: W 057:21.1
Position: We Have Arrived at St. Pierre!
Today was a lay-over day here in St. Pierre
Position: approximately N 47:05: W 055:55 (from memory)
Position: N 47:24: W 056:35 or something like that
We had a long hard beat to windward today from Grand Banks -- it was over 45
miles. But we made it. We did get fuel in Grand Banks after all -- we had to
buy a "jerry-can" to lug the fuel from the gas station over to the boat. The
harbormaster lent us his wheel-barrow, which helped a lot.
"Thank you marcia, rudy, sue and john.
Position: N 47:38.7: W 057:30.0
Position: N 47:07.0: W 059:02.2
Position: North Sydney
Position: Sydney
Position: Baddeck
Position: N 45:43.5: W 060:49.0
Position: N45:08.36; W061:36.92, Harbor Island Cove off Drum Head, Nova Scotia
The anchorage was something of a road-stead. Through the evening the winds
continued to build and around 10:00 pm we awoke to find that we had dragged
anchor across the cove and were washed up on the beach. We tried to kedge
the boat off, but we just pulled the anchor to the boat. We got out the
dingy, inflated it (it had been packed away unused so far), got the outboard
going (after some struggles with shear pins, etc...), and hauled the anchor
out again. Again it didn't catch, so we repeated the exercise. This time the
anchor seemed to hold, but we couldn't pull ourselves off the beach because
the tide had fallen. We were hard aground, heeling into the beach at an
angle of about 25 degrees. All the while it is very dark, driving rain, and
winds of 25 knots pushing us on to the beach. Fortunately the waves were
small, but there was a period where we weren't sure we were going to be able
to save the boat. "At no time were our lives in any danger." By this time (midnight) a Canadian Coast Guard Rescue Boat
responded to our call on the radio, encouraged us to keep tension on the
anchor and wait for the tide to come back in, while they stood buy. They
also offered us the use of one of their large heavy anchors, which we
accepted (we were about to run out our own second anchor, but their anchor
seemed a better bet than ours). So they launched their zodiac, brought us
the rode and set their anchor. With their anchor led to our stern and our
anchor off our bow, we winched and winched until we had the boat heeled away
from the beach (still grounded). The wind abated, the tide kept coming in,
and eventually we were able to winch the boat free from the beach.
We were floating! No water was coming in the hull anywhere! The engine was
running fine! We retrieved our anchor, while still tied to the CCG's anchor,
then passed their rode back to the guys in the Zodiac while we motored off
after the Rescue Boat who lit the way for us to the wharf at Drum Head,
where we tied up (at 4:00 am) for the rest of the night. Then the Rescue
Boat went back to retrieve their anchor and the rest of their team (the two
guys in the Zodiac).
Sorry, no pictures.
Position: N 45:00: W 062:00
So we set off in thick fog, navigating by RADAR, for Liscombe Lodge, a posh
place Dan and Nat had stopped at on their Nova Scotia Cruise some ten years
ago. We all got hot showers, a soak in the hot tub, a delicious dinner, and
all our wet clothes in the laundry. Now it's off to bed -- we'll think about
tomorrow's destination tomorrow.
Position: N 44:53.1: W 062:24.9
Position: N 44:46.0: W 063:01.0
Hello Everybody! We're here in Halifax, Nova Scotia, the Big Harbour. We
arrived yesterday after a boring day of motoring in light winds, lumpy
seas, and rain. At least with rain, as opposed to fog, we can see where
we're going. Last night we were treated
to a wonderful dinner at the Royal Nova Scotia Yacht Squadron by the
brother of one of Nat's long-time friends. Today we are running errands (in the sunshine) and
provisioning for the last leg of our voyage.
Position: N44:03.3; W064:07.3
Position: N 43:06.7; W 066:08.9
Position: N 42:54.9; W 068:39.4
Position: Pepperell Cove, Portsmouth Harbor
We tied up at the public docks at Prescott Park in
Portsmouth mid-afternoon on Sunday, from where the Captain attempted to
contact the Customs Office. Eventually he got through and we were
cleared back into the country. Then we moved the boat to a Portsmouth
Yacht Club mooring in Pepperell Cove. Harold called Dianne and arranged
for her to pick him up at the Kittery Point Town Dock.
Meanwhile, we worked on de-rigging the boat. Dianne arrived around 6:30 pm
just as we finally got the outboard on the dinghy going, and Tim ferried
Harold and Dan ashore. Dianne and Harold then gave Dan a ride to where
Nat's car was parked, and Dan returned with it to the PYC in New Castle, while they went home.
Tim took the dinghy back to the boat and picked up Nat, and they met Dan at the PYC.
Tim's truck was in the Storage Barn at Great Bay Marine and he
wouldn't be able to retrieve it until Monday (because there would be
nobody in the office there late on a Sunday evening), so the three of us
remaining spent Sunday night on the boat. Monday morning we ferried gear
and crew ashore to the PYC, drove up to Newington to get Tim's truck,
and then headed home!!!!
Last Modified March, 2004
Crew Log Update: Leg 1: Portsmouth to Ile St. Pierre
Friday 6/20/03
Saturday 6/21/03
Sunday 6/22/03
Monday 6/23/03
Right now there is no wind, forcast has no
wind, we are going slow. Wish us some wind. We have tried to make SSB
radio contact with no luck so far.
Tuesday 6/24/03
We have been sailing (drifting) on a sea of
glass, at an average speed of 1-1/2 knots most of the day. We ran the
motor for a few hours. We have seen a shark, dolphin, whale, and a oil
supertanker.
16-foot Basking Shark
Nat on DeckWednesday 6/25/03
We have wind! GPS: over 7.4 knots over the
ground. But now we are bucking the tide so we are running the motor to
recharge the batteries. This morning we saw a pod of about 30 dolphins
around Diapensia chasing fish. We have not been able to connect to the
Internet to check our email. If you wish to send a text message (160
characters or less), which appears on our satellite phone, email to:
881621419225@msg.iridium.com. Otherwise, please feel free to email
Wendy
Tim calling Wendy on the Sat Phone
Harold calling Dianne on the Sat PhoneThursday 6/26/03
We are SSW of Halifax moving at 6 knots down
wind. We are trying hard to stay out of the way of Canadian War ships in
their firing exercises. We have seen a Minke Whale.
Warship 711, Where are you????
Friday 6/27/03
Second day of fog. We are moving 6 knots, with
a double reef in the main and towing a water generator on a beam reach.
No wild animals today. Last night we were within a mile of an oil
tanker. They saw us on radar. Called us, and said they would pass in
front of us with plenty of time. We have a weak signal from Net control
on our SSB Radio.
Sailing in Fog
Captain and CrewSaturday 6/28/03
Still sailing in fog. At the moment we are
being escorted by a whale about 20 feet away. The whale has been
swimming on one side of Diapensia, then swims under Diapensia and comes
up for air on the other side. The whale is about the size of Diapensia.
Harold described life on a boat as "the life of a dog". We play, we
sleep, we play then someone feeds us. 150 miles from St. Pierre.
Life down below on the off-watchSunday 6/29/03
We should reach St. Pierre early tomorrow
afternoon. We had fog this morning, but great weather this afternoon.
Passed over the Laurentian Channel, 1500 feet water depth or 250
fathoms!
Monday 6/30/03
A long toughh arduous beat up wind, starting
this past midnight. Strong winds from the NE. Very busy taking care of
laundry and showers. Our expected departure time is tomorrow.
Landfall St. Pierre!!!!Tuesday 7/1/03
Tied up with the aluminum french yachts at the St. Pierre
Yacht Club.
Crew Log Update: Leg 2: Southwest coast of Newfoundland, St. Pierre to Sydney
Wednesday 7/2/03
Email from Tim: We are now in Grand Banks, Newfoundland (on the north side of the Burin
Penninsula). I'm accessing the internet at the public library here. The forecast today was for fairly
strong southwest winds, but we motored all the way from St. Pierre in near
calm. We enjoyed eating fine french pastries while we were there. Now we are
trying to arrange for diesel fuel, which is proving to be a real problem.
Tomorrow we expect to be heading off to Francois on the southwest coast and
from there we'll continue west harbor hopping for as long as we can until we
need to turn and head for Sydney, Nova Scotia.
Grand Bank Head
Grand Bank HarborThursday 7/3/03
I'm writing to you from Francois (pronounced "France-Way") on the South
Coast of Newfoundland. This is a tiny remote little village nestled in an
ampitheater at the head of a fjord-- the water is about 200 feet deep and
the rock walls rise 400 feet above us all around! I don't think the Sat
Phone will work from in here. There is no road here -- the only access is by
the coastal ferry boat. But they do have internet access!!!!!
Bill, it looks like our antenna tuner is shot. We would have used a straight
connection to the antenna but we've been too busy at 2:00."
Leaving the Francois Fjord the next day.Friday 7/4/03
"Happy Independence Day" We are in a small,
out of the way, cove called Doctor Harbor. It is a very nice place
Doctor Harbor (one of many on this coast)
Our View of the Newfoundland Coast -- a blurry RADAR image!!!!
Only when you get really close does it look like this.
Motoring through heavy seas in the fogSaturday 7/5/03
Position: N 47:40.3: W 058:13.6
Fog, Fog, Fog.
We are anchored in a small village called Grand Bruit.
Tomorrow we will be leaving for Sydney -- 114 miles, adverse winds and a lots of beating up wind. The passage may take two days.
The waterfall
From the top of the waterfall.Sunday 7/6/03
Windy. We are half way across the Cabot
Strait. We should be in Sydney tomorrow morning, where we will spend the
night.
Monday 7/7/03
Email from Tim: We're in North Sydney, Nova Scotia. I can't remember the coordinates...
We sailed all day yesterday and through the night, mostly closed hauled. Got
headed and couldn't make the course, so when the wind died this morning we
motored the last several hours bucking a current and head wind trying to get
into Sydney Harbour. Made it in by early afternoon. Tomorrow we're off for
the Great Bras D'Or! A lot of tide runs through there, so timing will be
important. Should be an interesting ride.
Tuesday 7/8/03
Pictures!
Hello Everybody! There are Gale Warnings in effect all around us, including
for the Bras D'Or Lakes, so we decided to stay in Sydney for another
night, although we moved from the Ballast Grounds Fishery in North
Sydney to the Royal Cape Breton Yacht Club in Sydney (proper). The
Public Library here in Sydney has ports for laptop users to connect to
the internet, so now I can post some pictures!!!! You'll find them posted more or less on the appropriate date...
Crew Log Update: Leg 3: Bras D'Or Lakes, Sydney to Halifax
Wednesday 7/9/03
We are in the tourist town of Baddeck. We have heard through the grapevine,
one of the two bridges we need to pass through to pass between the Bras D'Or Lakes is broken.
We will find out more information tomorrow.
Sailing into the Great Bras D'Or, approaching the Seal Island Bridge
Outcrops of Gypsum along the shores of the Great Bras D'Or, as we're approaching Baddeck.Thursday 7/10/03
We are now anchored in Cape George Harbor.
After signing a release waiver, we were able to pass through the broken
bridge. One of the working bridges is a swing bridge for a railroad
track. The broken bridge was a draw bridge with only one side working.
Tomorrow we will enter the St. Peter Canal.
Nat, at the helm!!!!!Friday 7/11/03
Email from Tim: This morning we passed through the St. Peters Canal and Tidal Lock from the
Bras D'Or Lakes back into the Atlantic Ocean. We then motor-sailed about 50
miles around Cape Canso to an anchorage we picked out in Harbor Island Cove
off Drum Head, arriving about 7:00 in driving rain and building easterlies.
We saw several seals, heads bobbing up above the waves to give us a good
look, as well as a bald eagle, great blue herons, harbor porpoises, etc...
Entering the St. Peter's Canal
Approaching the Lock
The Lock closing after we had entered.
In the Lock waiting for water levels to equilibrate.
To illustrate our night of drama, here's the chart showing Harbour
Island. We washed up on the beach next to the wreck, shown on the chart
by the funny triangle with the tipped mast, at N45:08.36; W061:36.92. The presence of this wreck
made us that much more anxious about our predicament. Clearly this other
vessel had been unable to extract itself from the mud; fortunately we
were able to. All that remains of it is the boiler, the rest of the ship
having rotted away. Nonetheless it was an eery presence looming through the dark.Saturday 7/12/03
Email from Tim (Sat. night): This morning one
of the fishermen at Drum Head arranged for a scuba diver to come check
out the boat. We'ld rubbed off some bottom paint (but no fiberglass) and
polished up the bronze at the rudder heel, but that's all he could see.
Fortunately for us, the beach we had washed up on was soft mud...
Is this a fixer-upper or a push-er-over?
Liscombe Lodge is located at the head of navigation of the Liscombe River.
Sunday 7/13/03
Anchored at Beaver Harbor.
Diapensia's GPS alarm set to go off if we move during the night.
Why do we have the sail reefed? The winds seldom seem to live up to the forecast. (Sailing back down the Liscombe River)
Enjoying a nice sail before an obnoxious jetskier threw us a wave that washed over the whole boat and got us soaked.
Monday 7/14/03
Jeddore Harbor. Tied up to a fishing boat, tied up to a dock. Motor sailed through fog most of the day. Uneventful day.
Tied alongside the fishing boat "Tickled Pink II" at the public wharf in Jeddore
Sunset over JeddoreWednesday 7/16/03
Position: N44:38.1; W063:36.8
More Pictures!
Theodore Tugboat at home in the Big Harbour!
The Prison at Armdale Yacht Club -- a hold-over from the Napoleonic Wars.
How they move boats around at the Armdale Yacht Club. Travel-Lift? Hydraulic Trailer? Nah... a log skidder!
Once the cradle has been skidded on to the platform, the boat is launched with this Marine Railway.
View of the Armdale Yacht Club from our slip.
Crew Log Update: Leg 4: Halifax to Portsmouth
Thursday 7/17/03
Fog. We are motor sailing. Not enough wind to
make any head way without the motor. We are ready to come home.
Friday 7/18/03
Great day of sailing. Less than 200 miles to
go. This morning Tim and Harold saw a giant sea turtle about 5 feet
long.
Saturday 7/19/03
Motor sailing. We should reach Portsmouth tomorrow. Once we arrive we will call Customs.
We are unable to get off the boat until we have been checked out. Hopefully, they are open on Sunday.
Sunday 7/20/03
Sunrise, still about 35 miles out from Portsmouth
The colors and textures were just fantastic!Monday 7/21/03
We're Home!
Diapensia on the hard after the voyage, with Bennett, glad that his Dad, Grampa, Nana, and Harold are home again.